Salicylic Acid (INCI: Salicylic Acid, abbreviated as SA), also known as o-hydroxybenzoic acid, is a classic lipophilic β-hydroxy acid (BHA) in skincare, naturally found in willow bark, white birch and other plants, and can also be produced via synthetic routes. With its unique fat-soluble structure and well-documented multi-target efficacy, it has become a core raw material for oil control, acne treatment, pore refining and keratin regulation products. It can synergize well with moisturizing and soothing ingredients to meet the demand for safe, effective and targeted skincare solutions.
As early as ancient times, humans used willow bark extract for anti-inflammatory and pain-relief purposes. In the 19th century, salicylic acid was successfully isolated and identified, and later widely used in medicine and skincare. Its lipophilic molecular structure allows it to penetrate deep into pores along the sebaceous glands, effectively dissolving oil and keratin plugs that water-soluble acids cannot reach. It has moderate skin compatibility; when used within a safe concentration and suitable pH range, it offers controllable irritation and good tolerance for most skin types, especially oily and acne-prone skin.
Its core skincare benefits are supported by extensive clinical and formulation practices: It regulates keratin metabolism by loosening desmosomes between keratinocytes, gently exfoliating dead skin, improving roughness and dullness, and smoothing skin texture. As a lipophilic ingredient, it penetrates follicles to dissolve oil-keratin plugs, inhibit excessive sebum secretion, reduce blackheads, whiteheads and inflammatory acne, and refine enlarged pores. It suppresses inflammatory pathways, reduces redness and swelling caused by acne, and inhibits certain skin microorganisms to lower the risk of breakouts. In addition, it helps lighten post-acne marks and uneven tone by promoting epidermal turnover and inhibiting melanin deposition. In scalp care, it relieves dandruff, oiliness and itching by exfoliating scalp keratin and regulating sebum.
Formulation with salicylic acid requires strict control of conditions to ensure stability and efficacy: it shows optimal activity at pH 3.0–4.0; higher pH will reduce solubility and activity, while overly strong acidity may increase irritation. It has important incompatibilities: avoid mixing with high-concentration strong oxidants, high-pH alkaline components, strong irritant acids in high doses, and retinoids in sensitive-skin formulas to prevent excessive irritation or compromised stability. Salicylic acid is poorly soluble in water; it is usually pre-dissolved in ethanol, propylene glycol or other solvents, or made into microencapsulated/cyclodextrin-encapsulated forms to slow release, reduce irritation and improve stability. It pairs well with niacinamide, panthenol, bisabolol and other soothing ingredients to balance efficacy and mildness.
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